Home brew cider and hard cider

Simple Cider (to make 4.5l) by Peter Laycock.

A very easily made dry cider which is slightly acidic to the taste and can easily be adapted/modified as required, I find adding the petals of an aromatic, fully opened rose, picked on a good sunny day, can be added around day 4, giving a little subtlety to the bouquet and flavour.

Ingredients:-

4l Apple juice (Supermarket type, no added chemicals or sugar & avoid anything with “drink” in the name)
50g sugar (see Notes below)
5g (1tsp) Pectic enzyme
2.5g (1/2 tsp) yeast nutrient **
Wine yeast (white Champagne is best but any wine yeast will do, even red)

1) Pour 1l of apple juice into a demijohn, add the sugar after dissolving in a small amount of warmed water (250ml or less), add the pectic enzyme, yeast (** nutrient probably will not need adding as the juice should contain sufficient).
2) After 1 day add 1l apple juice, repeat on days 3 & 4. All the juice could be added on day 1 but this gradual process possibly gives more flavour. (See AWARD WINING WINES by Bill Smith - Nexus Special Interests, for further information.)
3) On the last day make up to about 4.7l (this allows for wastage).
4) Ideally the cider should now be racked (siphoned off the rubbish or "lees" at the bottom of the demijohn) into a clean demijohn or, if you do not have a second demijohn, a sterile white plastic bucket can be used, the contents are then returned to the demijohn after it has been cleaned. Keep the demijohn in a cool dark place for about a fortnight to allow more sediment to settle out before bottling.
5) Bottle in plastic "pop" bottles with 1 rounded tsp sugar per 500ml & keep warm for a few days for the bottles to get "fat" with the secondary fermentation. If glass bottles are used then reduce the sugar to a maximum of 1 level tsp for safety reasons.
6) Store somewhere cool for at least a month before sampling.

Notes:- This cider would typically have an O.G. of around 1038 and a F.G. of around 998, giving about 5.6%ABV (including the priming sugar) and 0.74% acidity. For a less acidic cider the apple juice can be reduced to 3l and the sugar increased to 150g.
Stronger versions can be produce by adding extra sugar during stage 1, each extra 50g of sugar provides about 0.5% alcohol but do not sacrifice quality for alcoholic strength!

I usually make cider at the same time as I make a wine, just re-hydrate the wine yeast in a small amount of water as per the Manufacturers instructions, add an equal quantity of apple juice after 15min and again 1hr later, this working yeast can then be equally divided between the wine & the cider, preferably after a further 30min to an hour (not at all critical).

Note that if you use the YoBrew Calculators, the calculated Final Gravity is only an estimate and can easily vary a couple of degrees each way, similarly the O.G. can vary depending on the actual sugar contents of the ingredients used. Also note that hydrometers are not 100% accurate.

The instructions below are the old style very strong country cider.

"For the best cider, a mixture of different varieties of apples is best. Those usually chosen are non-keepers, small sour or windfall, with, if desired, a few crab-apples. An odd rotten apple in a large number is permissible, but otherwise they should be sound.

Before the Second World War, my historical searches tell me there were traveling cider presses in some districts, as many farms and cottages had a small orchard. This practice seems to have disappeared, though it may still exist in a few country areas.

To get your apples pressed ideally, a cider factory is the thing, if you can persuade them to do it. Alternatively, a cider factory might sell you newly pressed apple juice. For those who cannot find a cider factory, you can buy a fruit press from your local specialist shop.

The juice should be put into a wooden cask - a 30 gallon ex-brandy cask is ideal for first-class good keeping cider. Base your calculations on the fact that a ton of apples makes approximately 150 gallons of cider; therefore a cwt. makes approximately 7.5 gallons. Any good size wooden or plastic cask is suitable but the larger the better as fermentation goes on longer in a greater quantity of juice, thus producing a high alcohol content. The cask should stand in a cool place either on its side or end, wherever the bung hole is uppermost.

Never bung up the hole while fermentation is still going on; unless to bring the cask home, perhaps! After about forty eight hours the apple juice will start to ferment and white froth will bubble up through the bung hole. This will continue for about three weeks when fermentation has almost stopped, some juice should be siphoned out of the cask with a short length of sterile clear plastic pipe. The amount of juice removed should be sufficient to dissolve the required quantity of sugar.

Add 2 to 4 lb of sugar (depending on how sweet you want the cider) per gallon in the cask to the juice you have removed, and dissolved over heat. When quite dissolved, allow to cool, and then return to the cask. Owing to the addition of the sugar all the sweetened juice will not go back in at once. During fermentation, which will go on for about two weeks, the quantity of liquid in the cask reduces so that you can add the surplus gradually (as space permits). When fermentation has nearly finished, if all the 'juice and sugar mixture' is not in the cask, siphon out enough juice to allow this to go in. Bottle what you take out and use to keep the cask full while the cider is maturing -- as the quantity reduces during this process. Developing airspace in the cask will otherwise allow bacilli to breed and turn the cider acid.

When the juice has completely ceased to 'bubble up' bung the cask up tightly with either cork or wood, and leave for eight months.

Cider is usually made in October - November, and should be left as long as possible - up to two years before opening it, but at least until the cuckoo sings the following year. Then the cask may be tapped, or the cider bottled down with care.

I have not changed any wording so as not to lose the spirit of her text. Clearly there are parts that need updating as we are likely to use food grade plastic not "alas" wooden casks".

The yeast is naturally on the apples. This is the traditional method one could take some risk out by adding a prepared yeast culture (champagne yeast).

There is an interesting point and that is it does best in large quantities. This is also true of regular wine production. I'm not likely to pop down to the super market for a ton of mixed apples but maybe a group of us home brewers could club together to reproduce this vintage cider.

Perry (pear cider)
Dry perry (pears) / cider (apples)
firm but juicy pears
So, your apple/pear tree is overflowing and there is only so much you can eat. Well you can always brew them!

Ingredients
sour apples (cider) or firm but juicy pears (perry)
1) Choose your fruit make sure you avoid bad ones
2) Leave them in a warmish place for several weeks until they are just beginning to soften.
3) Chop and smash the fruit into a pulp
4) Strain through muslin, pressing very hard so that all juices are extracted. A fruit press is best for this but that an expense we'll try to avoid.
5) Keep this juice in the pan in a warm place.
6) Allow to bubble.
7) When bubbles rise to the surface of the liquid and the sediment drops to the bottom, put into a cask.
(Please note this recipe is country style where the natural yeast on the fruit is relied upon to ferment the extracted juice. This can be risky as who knows what yeast there is on your apples. Some less country minded folk wash there apples very well and add brewers yeast to the extracted juice to ensure that all is well)
8) Once bubbles stop and the brew is in the cask cover tightly.
9) Leave for 6-7 months
10 Strain and bottle.

Hard Cider

Q) What is hard cider?
A) HELP Required! I have detailed my understanding but as I am from the UK and it’s been a while since I have been to the US or Canada I would appreciate and email confirming or correcting my understanding. Email: Please drop me a line.

Hard cider is not a term we use much here in the UK. In some parts of the US they refer to non-alcoholic apple juice as cider. To distinguish between non-alcoholic apple juice and alcoholic apple juice they called the one with alcohol "hard cider". Then just to confuse things even more you can distil fermented cider of around 7% alcohol to be a 40% version. Much harder and I think it’s still called hard cider. Drinks such as apple jack are more popular in the USA. I have not seen this on sale in the UK but know it’s got a strong following elsewhere. This type of drink is sometimes made by back woodsmen with a home made pot still.

So to recap my understanding of what I think the Americans and the Canadians call different apple drinks.

WARNING: Distilling is a skill of its own and if not done correctly can be very dangerous. The alcohol fumes can blow up home made stills, and the end result if not done by an expert can be very toxic resulting in blindness.
If you know what you are doing and if it is legal then please don't let me put you off.

Alcohol percent	US / Canada term	UK term
0	Cider	Apple Juice
5-7%	Hard Cider	Cider or old the world term Cyder
10-14%	Apple Wine	Apple Wine
40%	Hard Cider	Apple Brandy

Hard Cider

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